Thursday, May 27, 2010

Rest day... very needed

Yesterday at the gym i climbed a little bit,
training some for my trip this weekend to the red
i stop training when i felt something weird in my hand/arm
it was my tendon
it felt strained
so i rested the rest of the day and took today OFF
did nothing!! just rest... some homework...

later i read up on tendon issues and stumbled over the following;

"The treatment is the same for flexor tendinitis as extensor tendinitis, and only rarely does it require surgical treatment. The appropriate treatment of rest, immobilization and anti-inflammatory medications will usually lead to resolution within three weeks.
Inflammation of a tendon and its sheath responds well to rest via activity modification. The offending activities must be avoided at least until the symptoms abate. If the symptoms are severe enough, complete immobilization in a cast or splint may be necessary, although rarely for more than three weeks. In certain cases, carefully placed steroid injections may be very helpful.

There is no way i'm going to be resting for three weeks... That's a little bit too much
especially since i already had to take 3 months off cause of my knee earlier this season...

I'm going to play it slow, and see what happens...
I'll take it easy
probablly tape up
hopefully it was a minor strain that healed up in my day and a half of rest...

Tuesday, May 25, 2010

Little Rock City

I headed up to LRC right after class to meet up with Greg Ward
He has been going up there frequently over the summer doing an easy circuit
i wasn't in the mood to do a full circuit because i had to be at TBA by 3pm
We warmed up and headed over to Six Feet Under

To warm up we did the easy stuff in the front area; and then continued over to The Wave where i saw that The Mechanic broke... The huge jug ledge was laying on the ground... So we tried that a little bit and figured out some differnt beta... It's not much harder at all...

Here is a video of Me doing The Mechanic from a while back... The hold that now is gone is the first hold you go to from the start... The one you knee bar off of...

Here is a video of Voges doing Six Feet Under

The Beta - Six Feet Under from Andrew Kornylak on Vimeo.

Since my knee is still messed up i was unable to do any left heel hooks
And after seeing Greg try it, i just gave up hope...
But since i was there i figured i might as well try some other beta and that's when i figured it out!
So for the first big move i did a swinging pendulum move w/ my right hand and matched the hold...
Then to get out to the lip i ended up getting this sweet left toe hook... and coming out around the bulge w/ my right hand...
So psyched!
I'm feeling really strong! I'm thinking of heading out there sometime soon to get on Bedwetters

Sunday, May 23, 2010

The Red; great weekend!

This weekend was successful!
i'd say so at least...

Packing up the car!

Day 1 (Friday; Roadside)

Ashley and I got to the Roadside parking lot at 6:30pm

We went up to roadside where we were so psyched to be climbing on some red river gorge sandstone...

Both of us hadn't been back to the red in over a year...

I did 5 pitches

- Dragonslayer
- Crazyfingers
-Pulling Pockets
-Stay the Hand (2 times; second time pulled up to the second bolt and speed climbed to the top because it was getting dark and i had to clean it)

Ashley did 3 pitches

-Pulling Pockets

Day 2 (Saturday; Motherlode)
i was really psyched to go to the lode because one of my long lasting projects is there... it is also one of my favorite routes ever... Cut Throat
The Madness Cave

I did 8 pitches of climbing at the lode that day

- Chainsaw (warm up)
-Skin Boat (i wanted to see how i'd do, i think i fell/took 2 or 3 times
- Convicted (also seeing how well i'd do with my lacking endurance and really surprised myself my getting two bolts from the top)
-Ale-8 (i had to take at the top, i got so pumped)
- Cut Throat (two times)
1st try; went bolt to bolt to remember my beta
2nd try; i fell at the second part of the crux (going from 3rd to 4th) but hung there for a minute and went to the anchors... so psyched to get back on it next weekend
-Injured Reserve
- Trust in Jesus

Me on Cut Throat

Ashley did 6 pitches
-Chainsaw (warm up)
-Ale-8 (3 times trying to figure out the best beta)
- 8 ball (she told me that tim told her to try it, so i got her to try it; she got a few bolts up but wasn't really psyched on it)
-Injured Reserve

Oreo wet and tired from playing in the water hole at the bottom on the madness cave with Miso

Day 3 (Sunday; Solar Collector)
We left miguel's with a lot of enthusiasm on having a very full and productive day at both darkside and solar collector...
We were suppose to go to darkside and do 2 or 3 pitches there, and finish off the day at solar collector and be at the car by 5pm;
Instead our day went something like this:
Me eating my pretzels

On our hike to the darkside, we decided that we were really tired and didn't want to do a "two crags in a day"
Since solar was the closest one we ended up there
We did Super Pitch as a warm up/realizing how tired we really were

Ashley climbing around at Solar

We then sun bathed for about an hour...
I rounded up enough energy to do Mona Lisa Overdrive
After that we called it a day and headed back to Miguel's where we had to pack up the tent...
This gave us time to hang out some more and allowed me to eat some more Miguel's pizza...
We left Miguel's to head back to Chatty Around 4:30pm

Ashley hanging out at Solar Collector

Oreo had a BLAST!
He go to run around everyday...
He also met himself a nice friend named Miso (Ana's dog)
He was really tired at solar collector as well...

Oreo found himself a head rest

Oreo leaning against a rock

Wednesday, May 19, 2010

The Red River Gorge

this weekend ashley and i are going to the red
after my epic pump fest yesterday, i'm not expecting to send much when i get out to the red, but at the same time you never know
i do have a few projects at the red that i want to get...
luckily i will be heading to the red memorial day weekend as well, so hopefully i'll build up endurance this weekend to send the projects next weekend...

the projects are:
1) cut throat
2) elephant man
3) golden boy
4) paradise lost

my favorite climb at the red is cut throat so i am really psyched to get back on it!

ashley and i will be brining our cameras with us this time, so we will have pictures when we get back... so psyched!

it will be oreo's first trip to the red as well!

Tuesday, May 18, 2010

11th day on...

i'm guessing that today was my 11th day on, but i can't remember if i had rested twelve days ago or not... so i'm just going with 11...

today we (lu, ashley, tim, phil, andrew, brooke and i) headed out to the canyon...
we climbed at toomsooba (i learned the correct spelling of that today, i always thought it was team suba)... it was my first time there so i was psyched to get on a bunch of new climbs!

lu and i wanted to do 12 pitches... so we started off with a 5.9 (cake walk) warm up
moved onto a 5.11 (ADR 1) warm up...
then we got to the 12s...
1) courtesy 5.12 - fell at the top
2) toomsooba 5.12 (flash)
3) powder keg 5.12 - tried three times; second time clipped on of the anchors and fell on the move to the jug
4) spell bound 5.12- fell at the crux; amazing rockclimb
5) ADR 5.11 - so pumped; hands were opening on all the jugs
6) double aught 5.12 - amazing as well

lu sent all the ones that i got on, but also got on the beast (5.13) and gave that thing two good efforts, but unfortunately he couldn't pull through without the fall... better luck next time... (but he's done all of them before, so he was mostly training)

ashley was working on her project; powder keg... she gave it a few awesome efforts but the problem was still undefeated...

tim ended up taking a rest day, mostly belaying everyone; thanks tim!

phil warmed up and was really psyched on spell bound; tried it a few times - first burn figuring out the beta, and the next couple of burns trying to get through the crux...

andrew and brooke tried a few different things; toomsooba, powder keg and a 5.10 on the way out...

we all (except lu) have things to come back to... can't wait to get back there!

oreo had a blast as well... he found himself a cave that he got all dirty in (which got him in trouble because he stepped on the rope, so we tied him up to a tree)... he also found some animal bones that he enjoy very much... besides that he was good boy...

Wednesday, May 12, 2010

Tuesday, May 11, 2010

Rocktown picture

Little Bad

Little Bad

The Vagina

The Vagina

The Vagina

The Vagina

The Orb

The Orb

The Orb

The Orb



Photos courtesy of Sam Silvey

Sunday, May 9, 2010

climbing in chattanooga...

did some sport climbing today...
1) warm up climb (slab/vert climbing, really fun movement)
2) Silence (12b) - i went up bolt to bolt pretty much which allowed me to figure out the sequence, i felt as if i could do it next time... i would have gotten back on it but it made my leg hurt - i guess the leg is not back to FULL FUNCTION yet... next time
3) the cool down - witches brew - CLASSIC

and now for some homework

Saturday, May 8, 2010

Last few days...

1) i finished my first week of summer school - it isn't as bad as i thought it would be... lots of work, but you get it done with in a month... i have a test in both classes on wednesday so i'll be study for that tomorrow night and the next few days...

2) rocktown was not as successful as i wanted it to be - i didn't send my project... i need to get stronger on crimps, even though i thought i was strong enough to do my project... maybe if there is a colder evening, i might be heading out there for another effort at my project...

3) i climbed on a rope for the first time in a LONG TIME today - lee (and hazard) and i (and oreo) headed out to the canyon today... we left chattanooga at noon and got to the parking lot of team suba at around 3:30pm (we got lost a few times)... we were going to meet up with mark and phil (who were at Team Suba)... but unfortunately that approach is not dog friendly... we ended up at the concave where there were at least 6 dogs...
(a) did the warm up twice
(b) climbed the 12b a few routes to the right of the warm up - it had a really hard crux
(c) got on showboaters - really fun climb, i really enjoyed all of the moves... i think i can do it, the only thing that is holding me back is my left knee... i still can't heel hook very well... therefore the big move out of the roof on showboaters is a no go for now... but i did do all the other moves, and i can't wait to get back on it again w/ a healthier knee...

4) tomorrow i will be going out route climbing again and i might stop at TBA to take down the wave wall... it's time to re-set that wall!

Wednesday, May 5, 2010


rocktown tomorrow!
may 6th
meeting at TBA at noon!
so psyched!
i haven't climbed on real rock in SOOO long!
projects here i come, in 90 degree weather!
still really psyched though!!

Monday, May 3, 2010

School and Training

I start summer school tomorrow...
taking two classes

world civilizations II @ 8am
economics @ 9:50am

I get out of class at 11:30am everyday...
I don't work on Tuesday and Thursday during the month of may...
I'll still be at the gym to train the "TBA Ballers"
But I will still be able to climb outside some

I think i'm heading to rocktown on Thursday after class...
I have some unfinished business there...
hopefully it will go down!

Otherwise, i trained today at the gym...
and trained a few others while training myself...
did some finger workouts, core and lock offs...
the main things that i need to work on...
we will see tomorrow if i'm sore from the work out or not!

i'm also going to start jump roping...
i read that if you jump rope for 10 minutes a day 3 to 4 times a week,
it will help you lose weight in your thighs/legs...
so i'm psyched on that!
i got a jump rope the other day...
i forgot to bring it to the gym, i'll get that into the gym tomorrow!

i've brought a few new things to the gym...
- a metolius hang board...
- an ab roller machine (not the ab roller it self, its a easier version of it - it's been laying under my bed for a while and not being used, so i figured i might as well take it to the gym and i'll use it there as well as others)
- stretch bands (two different types)
- forearm roller balls

I'm also going to be trying to swim 2 to 3 times a week and do yoga 2 to 3 times a week...
i haven't figured out a specific schedule, but i'm working on that...

Women's highlight Video

Check out the women's highlight video on deadpoint magazine!
Props to Puccio, Johnson, Lisa, Francesca and Isabelle!
Good climbing, great performances!