Monday, March 28, 2011

Red River Gorge

I took the climbing team to the red this past weekend
It was a really good time
It was the first time 3 of them have rope climbed!
Unfortunately we did not climb the last day due to the frigid temperature and snow
here is a link to the TBA Climbing Team Blog for more information!

Sunday, March 20, 2011

Lilly Boulders and OBED

I headed up to the Obed this weekend to meet up with a bunch of "old schoolers"
I drove out there with Aj Friday morning
We got to Lilly boulders where we warmed up on Buddha Belly (still can't do it, haha)
From there we went to Mojo
something I wanted to finish up
I tried the crux move and it felt easy
So i gave it a try from the bottom and fell on the crux move
After a few more tries I sent it!
I was soo psyched
Aj kept trying it, sticking the crux move once...
After he got really tired, we did this fun V4 (Hooker) that started on the same start as Mojo, but went out the edge...
From there we ran into Kelly Brown (the guy that is making the Obed guide book)
He let me know that it will be out for sale in about a month
so psyched to get a copy of it
Aj did Slam Dunk
Everything else was wet, so we went back to camp where we waiting for the others to get here

The next two days were spend rope climbing
I don't have any endurance
Trying to built it up, but still psyched on bouldering...
we'll see what happens

I ended up doing this really fun climb that went through a roof called Mad Cow
Really fun and big moves
Got it second go, really psyched!
Overall it was a great weekend with great friends!

Wednesday, March 16, 2011


Headed out to LRC today...
It was a really nice day out
Cloudy, windy... perfect temps!

We warmed up in the front,
Tried the mechanic a bit

from there we headed to Cleopatra
where Kevin dispatched his long two year project
He had the bottom wired but just couldn't do the top
after a few attempts on the top out
He did it from the bottom
Here's a little clip of him sending...

From there we headed over to Bedwetters
This has been a project for a while now
It all came down to the last move
I never had that last right hand in the right spot
A few days ago when i went out there, i tried and did the last move
realizing i NEED to bump my right hand up one
Tried it a couple times from the bottom, feel in weird spots
But then, it all came together!
And i sent the climb!
It has amazing movement! I'm so psyched that i have finally completed the rock climb!

After we were done at Bedwetters, we headed over to white face
I have never tried it before, so i was psyched
I was grabbing the first hold you go to just not staying on
I tried the other moves and got to the tiny crimp with my right hand
I'm psyched to come back and give that one a try!

Monday, March 14, 2011

Dayton today...

it was a good session out at Dayton
Jordan and I went out there with our dogs

We started off at the roof
Where we warmed up and started giving Honey Comb some tries
I had never REALLY tried this climb
maybe a few moves here and there
Today i tried all of it and did all the moves
now i need to link it
On the other hand, Jordan had tried it before just a few days ago
having done all the moves he was trying it from the bottom every time

On one attempt, I was filming, he got through the whole problem, to the start of Reconciliation at which point he didn't have any pads under him, so i stopped filming to move the pads... and then, tragedy struck... he fell on the VERY LAST MOVE!
next time... it'll go

We headed to Riverdance from there. Jordan hadn't done it yet and i was going to try the right sit to it. It ends up I wasn't able to repeat Riverdance, so i just kept trying to repeat it instead. Jordan came pretty close, did all the moves just having to link it now.

Sunday, March 13, 2011

Rocktown with the team

I took the climbing team out to rocktown today
It was amazing weather and a great opportunity for all the kids
We will hopefully be going on day trips every weekend, maybe a few weekend trips depending on their school schedules...

aj did his first V8 (Big Bad Right)
also did Big bad left

caroline did the V2 version of the scoop
lydia got really close

savage got close to Big Bad Right

chris and andres tried everything

i ended up doing Big Bad Right as well, and Choctile Sundial

Besides the climbing, it was an awesome day. The kids all had a blast and we ended up leaving rocktown an hour later then what I had told the parents due to the hour change that happened the night before.

Here's a little video from the day
Hope you like it!

Friday, March 11, 2011

Good day of climbing...

We started the day off at suck creek
where the temps were prime, but the lack of pads made it hard to climb
so after doing a few warm ups we headed to LRC
Andrew filmed me on the wave and the mechanic

From there we got word that there were pads under Bedwetters
I've been trying this problem ever since I moved to Chattanooga 4 years ago
I've had a mental block about that problem, the last move
It is really scary to me, it seems as if you are going to fall on the rock to the left
which you never do... but the mental block prevented me from doing it

I tried it today, and first try got to the last move and set up and went for it
unfortunately my right foot popped right when i went for the finish
I tried it again and same thing happened but this time i just dropped because it didn't feel right
I couldn't generate to get to the finish hold
The body position wasn't right

I tried it one more time from the bottom, and it didn't feel right again
It was getting frustrating
So i decided to try just that last move
Tried it a couple times and couldn't make it feel right
Finally after a couple more tries of the last move, I decided to grab the seam higher than I always do
Got my left foot up on the smear
I stuck the move!
There we have it, I unlocked the 4 year mystery

I had done the last move one time before, but it was 3 years ago or so
So I didn't really remember how I did it
It was really good for me to do the last move
And I feel that i'll be able to dispatch this climb next time i get on it

From there we went over to cast away
Never got close to it
But decided to give it a whirl
I tried it a couple times and each time got a little closer
When finally, I latched the hold but slipped out of it
I was so psyched
Tried it many more times, but just couldn't get back to that hold
I was pretty tired and let it go

I'm hoping to get back to both of these problems
I just need to rest up some, and get it done
I'm also going to set Cast Away at the gym... haha...

The weather is looking really good for this next week!
Get to climbing!

Wednesday, March 2, 2011

Late in the season...

I know it's getting warm and bouldering isn't on the top of people's "TO DO LIST'S"
but i just got psyched to boulder, and after today i'm psyched to climb or at least try a bunch of stuff...
here is my tick list of things i want to try and hopefully complete:

The Vagina
Big Bad right - 3/13/11
Orb Direct
Bedwetters - 3/16/11
Damn Yankee
Paul Bunion Trav
Honey Comb
Law Dog
Five O
The Flow
Short Long
Whirl pool
O.P.P Low

It's a long list, and it's only getting hotter, but O WELL!
I just want to try these out and we'll see what happens from there!!

unfortunately the weather isn't looking so great for this weekend, but hopefully it will clear up and one of the days will be nice!!