Friday, June 25, 2010

Summer Competition at TBA

It's nice to have the competition behind me!
It was a great event for sure, but with everything that is going on...
It was tough to pull through...
Pretty much being responsible for so many things, i'm suprised i didn't forget anything!!

1) keeping in contact with Bill from the "Climb so kids can grow up" organization... making sure we had prizes and flyers...
2) taking holds down holds... washing holds... resetting the gym... (w/ the help of Josh and Tommy)
3) realizing about an hour before the event that 10 of the problem labels are missing... having to print and laminated 10 new ones... with the ink in the printer running low...
4) reazlizing about an hour before the event that we didn't have any score cards set up for the event yet...
5) when it came to the food... thankfully josh provided the hamburger and hot dog buns, and ashley provided the tomatoes, onions and lettuce... i had hot dogs at home that my room mate ended up eatting (ashley was awesome to pick stuff up for me and get water at green life)
6) having to help new customers between 4 - 6 and still getting the gym ready for the comp at the same time
7) three 10 hour days in a row (at the gym) with my calculus class at 1:30 to 3:15... driving from home to work to school to work...
8) after the comp, not having a fast way to calculate the scores... anna fox helped me out with that!

The event happened! From what i heard...
"the problems were awesome"
"the green problems were hard"
"food was good"
"people had a good time"

Before the competition we had already raised around $230 for the charity! During the event from just the food we raised $60! From the competitors we raised $75! That puts us at $365!!
We still have the team kids collecting money from their "pledges" If anyone wants to donate, you still can, just visit the TBA Website!!

I'd like to thank everyone that helped me out! Mostly Josh and Tommy! The extra hand in taking holds down and setting problems really helped out! Thanks to Ashley for helping with the register tonight and with getting my things from home and the water at greenlife! Also i'd like to thank the competitors, without you there would be no competition!! Also thanks to all the sponsors that supported the event!!

I'll be setting more problems over the next few days!!

Thursday, June 24, 2010

Overview of the last week

June 20th - Hard training session at the gym, maybe too hard
Luke, AJ and I decided to climb all the problems in the gym. We got about half way when i got on a yellow and did a drop knee. I felt two clicks and then my knee hurt. I hope it has just my tendons/ligaments jumping over each other. If feels fine now, but i'm scared to drop knee. I've been stretching, so hopefully that will help both of my knees out.

June 21st - School Started
I'm taking Calculus II w/ a lab. I never did understand the point of the lab in calculus. Most other schools don't do that, but o well. As of right now, i don't remember anything from calculus I. I'm hoping i'll remember soon, and get a good grade in the classes.

June 22nd - Went swimming instead of climbing
My finger has been hurting, so i've decided to take it easy and not climb as much. So i went swimming. Trying to get better and faster at swimming. I only swam 10 laps because i had to be in class at 1:30pm and got to the pool at 11:45am. I was done within an hour. I need to get better!!

June 23rd - Starting to reset the gym for the comp
My day was busy today - not so much busy as full
9:30am - 1pm -> at the gym (w/ Josh) taking all the holds off the right traverse wall and the TBA wall. We went ahead and reset those two walls as well. Some sweet problems are up right now.
1:30pm - 3:15pm -> I was in my Calculus Lab Class
4pm - 10pm -> Working at the gym. AJ, Luke and I washed the holds that we (Josh and I) took down earlier. Around 9pm we started to take the wave wall down. Before I left I set a pretty sweet blue problem on the wave using our big orange feature.

June 23rd - Lu got into a bad motorcycle crash, here is what he has to say about it...
"Thx for all the well wishes. Please don't be too concerned. The prognosis is good thus far. This is not my first rodeo. Just to clarify, I'm not a superstitious man, but the coincidences in this story are truly uncanny.

Lu all wrapped up... ready to rest!

The following is from native American folklore:
"To see an owl in your dream, symbolizes wisdom, insight and virtue. The owl is also synonymous with death and darkness. To hear the hoot of an owl, denotes disappointments and forewarns that death creeps closely in the wake of joy and health. To see a dead owl, signifies a narrow escape from desperate illness and death. Death in this sense may also represent a symbolic death, as in an important transition in life."

Middle Finger

A couple of days ago I, along with a couple of friends, went down to Suck Creek to do some climbing and get a dip. There is a tall boulder there which I wanted to ascent (see my pics). Sure enough, there was a dead Great Horned Owl at the base of the boulder. It was a fresh kill, riga-mortis had not set in yet. There were no signs of blunt force trauma, so we had no clue as to the cause of death. Strange as it may seem, we did not notice the deceased owl until after we sent the rig. Once we notices, I decided to bury the owl in a cave below the boulder, simply out of respect, but also to avoid spoiling the area with a decomposing cadaver. So that is what we did, but before burying it I got the crazy idea that having owl talons would be spiritually empowering, as well would be a great addition to my arrow head collection. Afterwards, we gave the Great Horned Owl an honorable burial.

Lu's back

Fast forward to yesterday. I had plans to head to TBA to set problems for out upcoming charity competition (Climb-Up so Children can Grow-up). At the last minute I chose to take out my '73 Honda CB450 and make a short ride of it. Let me preface this with the fact that I've been riding for twenty years now, even did a few years stint on the racing circuit. So this is not my first rodeo, I've been thrown off the saddle before. Just the same, I took my usual route down Riverfront Pkwy to the Chestnut Street shortcut. As I turned onto Chestnut, I glanced at my side mirror to make sure no vehicles were following closely behind me. When I focused forward again, I realized I was heading full throttle towards some rough pavement and a hearty sinkhole on the road. I did not have time to react, the road jarred the handle bar from my hands, a tank-slapper ensued and I hit the pavement hard. I do not recall much else, as endorphins took over. I did manage to call my wife Theresa for a ride. Evidently I expressed little concern and that I was simply needing a ride, but I could not provide a location for her. Shortly thereafter, coincidentally Paul Gussack, a friend from TBA, was taking the same route and found me sitting on the curb. Paul called for an ambulance. The rest is in the pictures above.
Strange chain of events for sure. No worries though, I am scathed yet breathing. About the curse of the owl talons, as the wise ol' climber (Peter Henley) stated, "No reason to fear the Talons now. You have paid for them in blood. Make the Neckless. Were you not wearing THEM!?!"

Coming Up

June 25th - Charity Climbing Comp ($15 entry fee)

The comp is 6pm to 9pm. We will be having hot dogs ($1.50) and hamburgers ($3). The climbing team is doing a climb-a-thon. They will have to climb as many problems as they can. Earlier in the week they have been going around getting pledges for the climb-a-thon event. Our goal is to donate $500. We hope to reach that!!

Friday, June 18, 2010

Pictures from the Red

Lu's truck packed for the trip!

Oreo drove

Oreo likes to be in the front

There is more room in the back!

Hanging out


AJ on Tuna Town


Sit down rest on Flower Power

Elephant Man

Lu on Gunsight Arete

Spider web holding water

The drive back home!
All photos courtesy of Sam Silvey

The Red River Gorge

We (Luis, Sam, Holly, AJ, Oreo and I) headed out to the red Monday around 6pm...
Got to Miguel's and set up camp
Last time AJ brought a tiny tent (4' x 4'), this time he brought a HUGE tent, we all could of fit in it! i was able to stand up in it... we could of have a dance party in there!

Day 1

The Gallery
I got on Different Strokes (5.11) it was soaked!! Awful conditions
Lu put up DaVinci's Left Ear (5.10) it was dry - everyone went up that one except me
Then Lu decided to go up Smack Dab (5.11) it was wet!! didn't go so well, he broke a hold off

We then decided to head on over to Purgatory, hoping we'd be able to give Paradise Lost a good burn!

We get there and it is cooler than where we were before, but unfortunately the first two draws of Paradise are wet, so we never got on it.

Instead we got on Believer (5.11), Special Boy (5.11), and Gluttony (5.12)
Lu and I had never been on Gluttony and we both flashed it
AJ tried REALLY hard to send, gave it three burns but just could not get past the pump

We ended up going swimming at the reservoir during a thunderstorm - we didn't stay long, just long enough to see Oreo swimming for the first time and to rinse off

Day 2

The Motherlode
We warmed up at the Warm Up wall on Injured Reserve (5.11) and Trust in Jesus (5.11)

Lu then wanted to five Cut Throat (5.13)
- his first try walked the crux and got to the fifth bolt where he "red lined" and ended up taking
- second try didn't go as well

We put AJ on Tuna Town (5.12)
- he was sooo pumped - didn't make it to the anchors

I got on Flower Power (5.13)
- i made it to the sit down rest, went two bolts above it and had to take because i didn't remember the beta AT ALL! after that rest i went bolt to bolt getting spanked from the lack of endurance, but made it to the anchors some how

We then proceeded on to Roadside!
Lu and I decided to climb all the routes on the 10 Wall meaning: A.W.O.L. (5.10), Dragonslayer (5.10), Crazyfingers (5.10), Pulling Pockets (5.10), Synchronicity (5.11), Jersey Connection (5.12), and Stay the Hand (5.12)
- Lu went first nonstop doing every single one and putting the draws up
- I went second and cleaning every route
- We both fell on the 12s

Day 3

Far Side
AJ and I warmed up on Papa Love Jug (5.11) which was extremely sharp and painful
The other three warmed up on Nameless (5.10) which seemed to be a lot more friendly to the skin
Lu also got on Subject to Change (5.10)
Earlier in the hike Lu spotted an amazing Arete named Gunsight Arete (5.12) and he was psyched to onsight it.
- Onsighting didn't go so well, but he got up it figuring out all the beta
- AJ got on it after him, he was scared!! He was shacking up that arete. AJ got to the third bolt and fell while clipping, thanks to Lu amazing belaying skills AJ didn't hit the ground, but ended up scrapping his back on the arete and getting a nice rope burn on the tricep...
- After AJ's fall no one else was psyched to get on it
- Lu ended up sending Gunsight Arete second go

Dark Side
We got to the Darkside where we saw some familiar faces; Tim, Ashley (Birthday girl) and Ana

Tim and Ashley were on Mama Benson (5.12) and Ana was trying to send Tuskan Raider (5.12)

Lu got on Mama Benson, American Dream (5.12) and Shanghai (5.12) - He flashed Mama Benson and American Dream but fell on Shanghai (gave it another go but the skin and fingers hurt to much)

I gave Elephant Man (5.13) two efforts
- first time just went up it bolt to bolt trying to remember my beta
- second time went for the send, but i fell at the crux and finished it with that one hang

Dario and Matt came up later after their morning of trad climbing
Dario got on Shanghai twice
Matt gave a good burn on Elephant Man
- Matt's beta after the crux made it ALOT easier

Holly and AJ got on Mama Benson

Sam jumarded up to take pictures (thanks)

Wednesday, June 9, 2010

5 days in Chicago

i came to chicago because i got my wisdom teeth pulled on monday (6/7)

i've been resting and doing nothing but watching Bones

that about sums up my trip to Chicago

i've been very tired and resting it up...

i havn't have this much rest in a while, so hopefully it will be beneificial for my climbing...

school starts on the 21st of june

and i have a 3 day trip planned for the red


we have a climbing comp on the 25th of june

Align Center

It is a fundraiser competition for children with AIDS!

Friday, June 4, 2010

Pictures from the Red!

Oreo hanging out in the back of the truck...

Leslie climbing at Left Field

Brent chilling in the whole of Hot For Teacher

Me on Paradise Lost

Brent on Jersey Connection

AJ's first route at the red!

Tuesday, June 1, 2010

Memorial Day Weekend

It was a good one!

Pulling Pockets (x2) - warm up and cool down
Crazyfingers - warm up
Jersey Connection (x2) - fell the first time, sent the second time

Cut Throat (x4) - first try i figured out the beta again... tried to send it 2nd and 3rd go... FINALLY sent 4th go!! YAY!

Left Field
Hop Scotch

Paradise Lost (x2) - first time figured out the beta, second time skin hurt to bad but made it bolt to bolt to the top

Volunteer Wall

Creep Show - warm up
Phantasia - figuring out the beta

The Legend - figuring out the beta
Gung Ho - sent

The Mule
Tic Tac Toe
Hot for Teacher

Ro Shampo