Friday, March 11, 2011

Good day of climbing...

We started the day off at suck creek
where the temps were prime, but the lack of pads made it hard to climb
so after doing a few warm ups we headed to LRC
Andrew filmed me on the wave and the mechanic

From there we got word that there were pads under Bedwetters
I've been trying this problem ever since I moved to Chattanooga 4 years ago
I've had a mental block about that problem, the last move
It is really scary to me, it seems as if you are going to fall on the rock to the left
which you never do... but the mental block prevented me from doing it

I tried it today, and first try got to the last move and set up and went for it
unfortunately my right foot popped right when i went for the finish
I tried it again and same thing happened but this time i just dropped because it didn't feel right
I couldn't generate to get to the finish hold
The body position wasn't right

I tried it one more time from the bottom, and it didn't feel right again
It was getting frustrating
So i decided to try just that last move
Tried it a couple times and couldn't make it feel right
Finally after a couple more tries of the last move, I decided to grab the seam higher than I always do
Got my left foot up on the smear
I stuck the move!
There we have it, I unlocked the 4 year mystery

I had done the last move one time before, but it was 3 years ago or so
So I didn't really remember how I did it
It was really good for me to do the last move
And I feel that i'll be able to dispatch this climb next time i get on it

From there we went over to cast away
Never got close to it
But decided to give it a whirl
I tried it a couple times and each time got a little closer
When finally, I latched the hold but slipped out of it
I was so psyched
Tried it many more times, but just couldn't get back to that hold
I was pretty tired and let it go

I'm hoping to get back to both of these problems
I just need to rest up some, and get it done
I'm also going to set Cast Away at the gym... haha...

The weather is looking really good for this next week!
Get to climbing!

1 comment:

  1. AWESOME KASIA!!!!! i'm so psyched for you that you unlocked the sequence on bedwetters.... GOOD LUCK, i know you can do it SOON!