Saturday, April 23, 2011

The Red in April

went to the red this weekend
the forecast was predicted to be between 50 and 100 percent chance of rain
it didn't stop us from going
we were psyched to go to the red to get that deep pump going

got there thursday night
set up camp, went to sleep and it rained all night long
woke up in the morning and it had stopped but obviously everything was wet

we went to Bob Marley
warmed up on Toker 11a and Crosley 11c
both really awesome routes
we then got on No Redemption 13b
jimmy sent the route on his second try, really awesome rock climb
i came down after trying one of the big moves, just couldn't seem to stick it
next time though
then aj and i got on dogleg 12a
it has two really big moves on it
i figured out how to do them and was psyched to try it again soon
from there we went to 50 words for pump 14c
jimmy tried it and got up to the 4th bolt where he said there was a v10 boulder problem crux
it was really bad conditions to get on it, so he came down after that
we got aj on Tacit 12a, he got really close to flashing it, he fell on the last hard move on the route
we went back to Miguel's after that and got some pizza
that night it stormed even worse and the tent started to leak
it sucked
my sleeping bag got wet

friday we ended up going back to bob marley
warmed up on the same two routes
this time we were join by luke and lee that had driven in the night before
i got back on dogleg along with aj to try and send it
almost did it
from there jimmy got on ultra perm 13c and figured out the beta
he tried it a second time and fell on the last hard move
and on the third attempt he looked really strong on it and sent it
i got on it after him and it was a bad epic
i have some mental problem when it comes to falling into open air
i'm fine when it comes to falling on other things that are more vertical
need to get over it though, i was never this scared of it, don't know what happened
luke, aj and lee all got on Tacit again as well
Luke was the only one to be able to defeat the route
Aj and lee both got really close
I went back and got on dogleg one last time hoping for the best
I stuck the first move and got a small but deep flapper on my left ring finger
and continued to stick the second big move
I was soo psyched, but i had to keep it together for the rest of the route
I am so psyched to have completed that climb!
we headed back to miguel's
packed up camp, ate some food and left to go to the obed
we decided to bail on the red due to the weather!
we'll be back soon enough!
and psyched for it!

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