Friday, June 18, 2010

The Red River Gorge

We (Luis, Sam, Holly, AJ, Oreo and I) headed out to the red Monday around 6pm...
Got to Miguel's and set up camp
Last time AJ brought a tiny tent (4' x 4'), this time he brought a HUGE tent, we all could of fit in it! i was able to stand up in it... we could of have a dance party in there!

Day 1

The Gallery
I got on Different Strokes (5.11) it was soaked!! Awful conditions
Lu put up DaVinci's Left Ear (5.10) it was dry - everyone went up that one except me
Then Lu decided to go up Smack Dab (5.11) it was wet!! didn't go so well, he broke a hold off

We then decided to head on over to Purgatory, hoping we'd be able to give Paradise Lost a good burn!

We get there and it is cooler than where we were before, but unfortunately the first two draws of Paradise are wet, so we never got on it.

Instead we got on Believer (5.11), Special Boy (5.11), and Gluttony (5.12)
Lu and I had never been on Gluttony and we both flashed it
AJ tried REALLY hard to send, gave it three burns but just could not get past the pump

We ended up going swimming at the reservoir during a thunderstorm - we didn't stay long, just long enough to see Oreo swimming for the first time and to rinse off

Day 2

The Motherlode
We warmed up at the Warm Up wall on Injured Reserve (5.11) and Trust in Jesus (5.11)

Lu then wanted to five Cut Throat (5.13)
- his first try walked the crux and got to the fifth bolt where he "red lined" and ended up taking
- second try didn't go as well

We put AJ on Tuna Town (5.12)
- he was sooo pumped - didn't make it to the anchors

I got on Flower Power (5.13)
- i made it to the sit down rest, went two bolts above it and had to take because i didn't remember the beta AT ALL! after that rest i went bolt to bolt getting spanked from the lack of endurance, but made it to the anchors some how

We then proceeded on to Roadside!
Lu and I decided to climb all the routes on the 10 Wall meaning: A.W.O.L. (5.10), Dragonslayer (5.10), Crazyfingers (5.10), Pulling Pockets (5.10), Synchronicity (5.11), Jersey Connection (5.12), and Stay the Hand (5.12)
- Lu went first nonstop doing every single one and putting the draws up
- I went second and cleaning every route
- We both fell on the 12s

Day 3

Far Side
AJ and I warmed up on Papa Love Jug (5.11) which was extremely sharp and painful
The other three warmed up on Nameless (5.10) which seemed to be a lot more friendly to the skin
Lu also got on Subject to Change (5.10)
Earlier in the hike Lu spotted an amazing Arete named Gunsight Arete (5.12) and he was psyched to onsight it.
- Onsighting didn't go so well, but he got up it figuring out all the beta
- AJ got on it after him, he was scared!! He was shacking up that arete. AJ got to the third bolt and fell while clipping, thanks to Lu amazing belaying skills AJ didn't hit the ground, but ended up scrapping his back on the arete and getting a nice rope burn on the tricep...
- After AJ's fall no one else was psyched to get on it
- Lu ended up sending Gunsight Arete second go

Dark Side
We got to the Darkside where we saw some familiar faces; Tim, Ashley (Birthday girl) and Ana

Tim and Ashley were on Mama Benson (5.12) and Ana was trying to send Tuskan Raider (5.12)

Lu got on Mama Benson, American Dream (5.12) and Shanghai (5.12) - He flashed Mama Benson and American Dream but fell on Shanghai (gave it another go but the skin and fingers hurt to much)

I gave Elephant Man (5.13) two efforts
- first time just went up it bolt to bolt trying to remember my beta
- second time went for the send, but i fell at the crux and finished it with that one hang

Dario and Matt came up later after their morning of trad climbing
Dario got on Shanghai twice
Matt gave a good burn on Elephant Man
- Matt's beta after the crux made it ALOT easier

Holly and AJ got on Mama Benson

Sam jumarded up to take pictures (thanks)

1 comment:

  1. Nice post, kash!

    I'm glad i got to see you for a little bit at the red.

    Mama Benson was really hard for me at the top. But I think i can do it in another go or two. I was trying REALLY HARD for once! So psyched on it though... How'd holly and AJ do on it? any sends?

    and i love all sam's pics!!!! post some!!!!!