Sunday, April 25, 2010

Climbing Comp @ Earth Treks

biggest sickest comp ever!!
qualifiers: red point format
i did alright in that, didn't really do anything hard
but i did enough to qualify in 12th into semi's so that's all that mattered!

semi-finals
4 problems - 5 minutes on 5 minutes off
bad ass problems!
semi #1: crimps to a big throw to another crimp to the top (really well set and really fun)
semi #2: MY STYLE!! no joke... good crimps, slopers and pinches! squeezing with the arms and legs! amazing... to bad that i got fell hitting the last hold twice! but what can you do... go to get a little bit stronger!!
semi#3: scary! so scared! it was soo high up! i mantled... it was awesome! then mantled again to the finish hold... i sat at the second to last hold for about 30 seconds cause i was to scared to commit to the last move... i had hurt my leg somehow on the 2nd problem... so i was very hesitant!
semi#4: it had a sweet ass dyno to two big pinches on the sweetest feature i've ever seen! (there were sooo many features on the walls, they were all pretty awesome!) it had a hard cross to a crimp/pinch and then a slopey gaston that had to be locked off to get to the next hold! i wasn't able to lock it off... i tried really hard though...

final #1: sweet problem... i just wasn't strong enough for it... big reach to an alright hold...
final #2: the jump start made me mad... i couldn't do it for a while... i finally got enough jump to stick it... but then it had a left heel hook move (which i haven't fully recovered from my knee injury back in December) i know that i could of at least stuck the next hold and stood up, and attempted to get to the next big blob of a hold...
final #3: i didn't really like it too much... it looked cool, but it just seemed awkward to me... just another thing i have to work on...

after this comp, i have found out what i need to work on...
1) crimps (i knew that one)
2) lock offs
3) dynamic moves to crimps
4) work on my core
5) get on a diet
6) work my flexibility

I'm going to start training on those things!! we will see how the training pays off at the next comp!

Also, thanks to Earth Treks for hosting the comp! Thanks to the hold companies that made this thing possible! Thanks to the setters and the forerunners for making these the hardest yet best problems! Thanks to Pete and Jason for getting this thing together!! And thanks to the competitors that made the trip and the spectators that came to watch!!

Here's a link to the website if you want to find pictures, videos and results of the event!

UBC - RocComp 4/24/2010 - Sneak Peek from NE2C on Vimeo.

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