The Red in April

went to the red this weekend

the forecast was predicted to be between 50 and 100 percent chance of rain

it didn't stop us from going

we were psyched to go to the red to get that deep pump going

got there thursday night

set up camp, went to sleep and it rained all night long

woke up in the morning and it had stopped but obviously everything was wet

we went to Bob Marley

warmed up on Toker 11a and Crosley 11c

both really awesome routes

we then got on No Redemption 13b

jimmy sent the route on his second try, really awesome rock climb

i came down after trying one of the big moves, just couldn't seem to stick it

next time though

then aj and i got on dogleg 12a

it has two really big moves on it

i figured out how to do them and was psyched to try it again soon

from there we went to 50 words for pump 14c

jimmy tried it and got up to the 4th bolt where he said there was a v10 boulder problem crux

it was really bad conditions to get on it, so he came down after that

we got aj on Tacit 12a, he got really close to flashing it, he fell on the last hard move on the route

we went back to Miguel's after that and got some pizza

that night it stormed even worse and the tent started to leak

it sucked

my sleeping bag got wet

friday we ended up going back to bob marley

warmed up on the same two routes

this time we were join by luke and lee that had driven in the night before

i got back on dogleg along with aj to try and send it

almost did it

from there jimmy got on ultra perm 13c and figured out the beta

he tried it a second time and fell on the last hard move

and on the third attempt he looked really strong on it and sent it

i got on it after him and it was a bad epic

i have some mental problem when it comes to falling into open air

i'm fine when it comes to falling on other things that are more vertical

need to get over it though, i was never this scared of it, don't know what happened

luke, aj and lee all got on Tacit again as well

Luke was the only one to be able to defeat the route

Aj and lee both got really close

I went back and got on dogleg one last time hoping for the best

I stuck the first move and got a small but deep flapper on my left ring finger

and continued to stick the second big move

I was soo psyched, but i had to keep it together for the rest of the route

I am so psyched to have completed that climb!

we headed back to miguel's

packed up camp, ate some food and left to go to the obed

we decided to bail on the red due to the weather!

we'll be back soon enough!

and psyched for it!

Red River Gorge

I took the climbing team to the red this past weekend
It was a really good time
It was the first time 3 of them have rope climbed!
Unfortunately we did not climb the last day due to the frigid temperature and snow
here is a link to the TBA Climbing Team Blog for more information!

Lilly Boulders and OBED

I headed up to the Obed this weekend to meet up with a bunch of "old schoolers"

I drove out there with Aj Friday morning

We got to Lilly boulders where we warmed up on Buddha Belly (still can't do it, haha)

From there we went to Mojo

something I wanted to finish up

I tried the crux move and it felt easy

So i gave it a try from the bottom and fell on the crux move

After a few more tries I sent it!

I was soo psyched

Aj kept trying it, sticking the crux move once...

After he got really tired, we did this fun V4 (Hooker) that started on the same start as Mojo, but went out the edge...

From there we ran into Kelly Brown (the guy that is making the Obed guide book)

He let me know that it will be out for sale in about a month

so psyched to get a copy of it

Aj did Slam Dunk

Everything else was wet, so we went back to camp where we waiting for the others to get here

The next two days were spend rope climbing

I don't have any endurance

Trying to built it up, but still psyched on bouldering...

we'll see what happens

I ended up doing this really fun climb that went through a roof called Mad Cow

Really fun and big moves

Got it second go, really psyched!

Overall it was a great weekend with great friends!

Bedwetters!

Headed out to LRC today...

It was a really nice day out

Cloudy, windy... perfect temps!

We warmed up in the front,

Tried the mechanic a bit

from there we headed to Cleopatra

where Kevin dispatched his long two year project

He had the bottom wired but just couldn't do the top

after a few attempts on the top out

He did it from the bottom

Here's a little clip of him sending...

Cleopatra from Kasia Pietras on Vimeo.

From there we headed over to Bedwetters

This has been a project for a while now

It all came down to the last move

I never had that last right hand in the right spot

A few days ago when i went out there, i tried and did the last move

realizing i NEED to bump my right hand up one

Tried it a couple times from the bottom, feel in weird spots

But then, it all came together!

And i sent the climb!

It has amazing movement! I'm so psyched that i have finally completed the rock climb!

After we were done at Bedwetters, we headed over to white face

I have never tried it before, so i was psyched

I was grabbing the first hold you go to just not staying on

I tried the other moves and got to the tiny crimp with my right hand

I'm psyched to come back and give that one a try!

Dayton today...

it was a good session out at Dayton

Jordan and I went out there with our dogs

We started off at the roof

Where we warmed up and started giving Honey Comb some tries

I had never REALLY tried this climb

maybe a few moves here and there

Today i tried all of it and did all the moves

now i need to link it

On the other hand, Jordan had tried it before just a few days ago

having done all the moves he was trying it from the bottom every time

On one attempt, I was filming, he got through the whole problem, to the start of Reconciliation at which point he didn't have any pads under him, so i stopped filming to move the pads... and then, tragedy struck... he fell on the VERY LAST MOVE!

next time... it'll go

We headed to Riverdance from there. Jordan hadn't done it yet and i was going to try the right sit to it. It ends up I wasn't able to repeat Riverdance, so i just kept trying to repeat it instead. Jordan came pretty close, did all the moves just having to link it now.

Rocktown with the team

I took the climbing team out to rocktown today

It was amazing weather and a great opportunity for all the kids

We will hopefully be going on day trips every weekend, maybe a few weekend trips depending on their school schedules...

aj did his first V8 (Big Bad Right)

also did Big bad left

caroline did the V2 version of the scoop

lydia got really close

savage got close to Big Bad Right

chris and andres tried everything

i ended up doing Big Bad Right as well, and Choctile Sundial

Besides the climbing, it was an awesome day. The kids all had a blast and we ended up leaving rocktown an hour later then what I had told the parents due to the hour change that happened the night before.

Here's a little video from the day

Hope you like it!

Team trip to Rocktown! from Kasia Pietras on Vimeo.

Good day of climbing...

We started the day off at suck creek

where the temps were prime, but the lack of pads made it hard to climb

so after doing a few warm ups we headed to LRC

Andrew filmed me on the wave and the mechanic

From there we got word that there were pads under Bedwetters

I've been trying this problem ever since I moved to Chattanooga 4 years ago

I've had a mental block about that problem, the last move

It is really scary to me, it seems as if you are going to fall on the rock to the left

which you never do... but the mental block prevented me from doing it

I tried it today, and first try got to the last move and set up and went for it

unfortunately my right foot popped right when i went for the finish

I tried it again and same thing happened but this time i just dropped because it didn't feel right

I couldn't generate to get to the finish hold

The body position wasn't right

I tried it one more time from the bottom, and it didn't feel right again

It was getting frustrating

So i decided to try just that last move

Tried it a couple times and couldn't make it feel right

Finally after a couple more tries of the last move, I decided to grab the seam higher than I always do

Got my left foot up on the smear

And DONE!

I stuck the move!

There we have it, I unlocked the 4 year mystery

I had done the last move one time before, but it was 3 years ago or so

So I didn't really remember how I did it

It was really good for me to do the last move

And I feel that i'll be able to dispatch this climb next time i get on it

SO PSYCHED!!

From there we went over to cast away

Never got close to it

But decided to give it a whirl

I tried it a couple times and each time got a little closer

When finally, I latched the hold but slipped out of it

I was so psyched

Tried it many more times, but just couldn't get back to that hold

I was pretty tired and let it go

I'm hoping to get back to both of these problems

I just need to rest up some, and get it done

I'm also going to set Cast Away at the gym... haha...

The weather is looking really good for this next week!

Get to climbing!