Yesterday at the gym i climbed a little bit,
training some for my trip this weekend to the red
i stop training when i felt something weird in my hand/arm
it was my tendon
it felt strained
so i rested the rest of the day and took today OFF
did nothing!! just rest... some homework...
later i read up on tendon issues and stumbled over the following;
"The treatment is the same for flexor tendinitis as extensor tendinitis, and only rarely does it require surgical treatment. The appropriate treatment of rest, immobilization and anti-inflammatory medications will usually lead to resolution within three weeks.
Inflammation of a tendon and its sheath responds well to rest via activity modification. The offending activities must be avoided at least until the symptoms abate. If the symptoms are severe enough, complete immobilization in a cast or splint may be necessary, although rarely for more than three weeks. In certain cases, carefully placed steroid injections may be very helpful. "
There is no way i'm going to be resting for three weeks... That's a little bit too much
especially since i already had to take 3 months off cause of my knee earlier this season...
I'm going to play it slow, and see what happens...
I'll take it easy
probablly tape up
hopefully it was a minor strain that healed up in my day and a half of rest...
Thursday, May 27, 2010
Tuesday, May 25, 2010
Little Rock City
I headed up to LRC right after class to meet up with Greg Ward
He has been going up there frequently over the summer doing an easy circuit
i wasn't in the mood to do a full circuit because i had to be at TBA by 3pm
We warmed up and headed over to Six Feet Under
To warm up we did the easy stuff in the front area; and then continued over to The Wave where i saw that The Mechanic broke... The huge jug ledge was laying on the ground... So we tried that a little bit and figured out some differnt beta... It's not much harder at all...
Here is a video of Me doing The Mechanic from a while back... The hold that now is gone is the first hold you go to from the start... The one you knee bar off of...
Here is a video of Voges doing Six Feet Under
And after seeing Greg try it, i just gave up hope...
But since i was there i figured i might as well try some other beta and that's when i figured it out!
So for the first big move i did a swinging pendulum move w/ my right hand and matched the hold...
Then to get out to the lip i ended up getting this sweet left toe hook... and coming out around the bulge w/ my right hand...
So psyched!
I'm feeling really strong! I'm thinking of heading out there sometime soon to get on Bedwetters
He has been going up there frequently over the summer doing an easy circuit
i wasn't in the mood to do a full circuit because i had to be at TBA by 3pm
We warmed up and headed over to Six Feet Under
To warm up we did the easy stuff in the front area; and then continued over to The Wave where i saw that The Mechanic broke... The huge jug ledge was laying on the ground... So we tried that a little bit and figured out some differnt beta... It's not much harder at all...
Here is a video of Me doing The Mechanic from a while back... The hold that now is gone is the first hold you go to from the start... The one you knee bar off of...
Here is a video of Voges doing Six Feet Under
The Beta - Six Feet Under from Andrew Kornylak on Vimeo.
Since my knee is still messed up i was unable to do any left heel hooksAnd after seeing Greg try it, i just gave up hope...
But since i was there i figured i might as well try some other beta and that's when i figured it out!
So for the first big move i did a swinging pendulum move w/ my right hand and matched the hold...
Then to get out to the lip i ended up getting this sweet left toe hook... and coming out around the bulge w/ my right hand...
So psyched!
I'm feeling really strong! I'm thinking of heading out there sometime soon to get on Bedwetters
Sunday, May 23, 2010
The Red; great weekend!
This weekend was successful!
i'd say so at least...
Packing up the car!
Day 1 (Friday; Roadside)
Ashley and I got to the Roadside parking lot at 6:30pm
We went up to roadside where we were so psyched to be climbing on some red river gorge sandstone...
Both of us hadn't been back to the red in over a year...
I did 5 pitches
- Dragonslayer
- Crazyfingers
-Pulling Pockets
-Stay the Hand (2 times; second time pulled up to the second bolt and speed climbed to the top because it was getting dark and i had to clean it)
Ashley did 3 pitches
-Dragonslayer
-Crazyfingers
-Pulling Pockets
Day 2 (Saturday; Motherlode)
i was really psyched to go to the lode because one of my long lasting projects is there... it is also one of my favorite routes ever... Cut Throat
The Madness CaveI did 8 pitches of climbing at the lode that day
- Chainsaw (warm up)
-Skin Boat (i wanted to see how i'd do, i think i fell/took 2 or 3 times
- Convicted (also seeing how well i'd do with my lacking endurance and really surprised myself my getting two bolts from the top)
-Ale-8 (i had to take at the top, i got so pumped)
- Cut Throat (two times)
1st try; went bolt to bolt to remember my beta
2nd try; i fell at the second part of the crux (going from 3rd to 4th) but hung there for a minute and went to the anchors... so psyched to get back on it next weekend
-Injured Reserve
- Trust in Jesus
Me on Cut Throat
Ashley did 6 pitches
-Chainsaw (warm up)
-Ale-8 (3 times trying to figure out the best beta)
- 8 ball (she told me that tim told her to try it, so i got her to try it; she got a few bolts up but wasn't really psyched on it)
-Injured Reserve
Oreo wet and tired from playing in the water hole at the bottom on the madness cave with Miso
Day 3 (Sunday; Solar Collector)
We left miguel's with a lot of enthusiasm on having a very full and productive day at both darkside and solar collector...
We were suppose to go to darkside and do 2 or 3 pitches there, and finish off the day at solar collector and be at the car by 5pm;
Instead our day went something like this:
Me eating my pretzelsOn our hike to the darkside, we decided that we were really tired and didn't want to do a "two crags in a day"
Since solar was the closest one we ended up there
We did Super Pitch as a warm up/realizing how tired we really were
Ashley climbing around at Solar
We then sun bathed for about an hour...
I rounded up enough energy to do Mona Lisa Overdrive
After that we called it a day and headed back to Miguel's where we had to pack up the tent...
This gave us time to hang out some more and allowed me to eat some more Miguel's pizza...
We left Miguel's to head back to Chatty Around 4:30pm
Ashley hanging out at Solar Collector
Oreo had a BLAST!
He go to run around everyday...
He also met himself a nice friend named Miso (Ana's dog)
He was really tired at solar collector as well...
Oreo found himself a head rest
Oreo leaning against a rock Wednesday, May 19, 2010
The Red River Gorge
this weekend ashley and i are going to the red
after my epic pump fest yesterday, i'm not expecting to send much when i get out to the red, but at the same time you never know
i do have a few projects at the red that i want to get...
luckily i will be heading to the red memorial day weekend as well, so hopefully i'll build up endurance this weekend to send the projects next weekend...
the projects are:
1) cut throat
2) elephant man
3) golden boy
4) paradise lost
my favorite climb at the red is cut throat so i am really psyched to get back on it!
ashley and i will be brining our cameras with us this time, so we will have pictures when we get back... so psyched!
it will be oreo's first trip to the red as well!
after my epic pump fest yesterday, i'm not expecting to send much when i get out to the red, but at the same time you never know
i do have a few projects at the red that i want to get...
luckily i will be heading to the red memorial day weekend as well, so hopefully i'll build up endurance this weekend to send the projects next weekend...
the projects are:
1) cut throat
2) elephant man
3) golden boy
4) paradise lost
my favorite climb at the red is cut throat so i am really psyched to get back on it!
ashley and i will be brining our cameras with us this time, so we will have pictures when we get back... so psyched!
it will be oreo's first trip to the red as well!
Tuesday, May 18, 2010
11th day on...
i'm guessing that today was my 11th day on, but i can't remember if i had rested twelve days ago or not... so i'm just going with 11...
today we (lu, ashley, tim, phil, andrew, brooke and i) headed out to the canyon...
we climbed at toomsooba (i learned the correct spelling of that today, i always thought it was team suba)... it was my first time there so i was psyched to get on a bunch of new climbs!
lu and i wanted to do 12 pitches... so we started off with a 5.9 (cake walk) warm up
moved onto a 5.11 (ADR 1) warm up...
then we got to the 12s...
1) courtesy 5.12 - fell at the top
2) toomsooba 5.12 (flash)
3) powder keg 5.12 - tried three times; second time clipped on of the anchors and fell on the move to the jug
4) spell bound 5.12- fell at the crux; amazing rockclimb
5) ADR 5.11 - so pumped; hands were opening on all the jugs
6) double aught 5.12 - amazing as well
lu sent all the ones that i got on, but also got on the beast (5.13) and gave that thing two good efforts, but unfortunately he couldn't pull through without the fall... better luck next time... (but he's done all of them before, so he was mostly training)
ashley was working on her project; powder keg... she gave it a few awesome efforts but the problem was still undefeated...
tim ended up taking a rest day, mostly belaying everyone; thanks tim!
phil warmed up and was really psyched on spell bound; tried it a few times - first burn figuring out the beta, and the next couple of burns trying to get through the crux...
andrew and brooke tried a few different things; toomsooba, powder keg and a 5.10 on the way out...
we all (except lu) have things to come back to... can't wait to get back there!
oreo had a blast as well... he found himself a cave that he got all dirty in (which got him in trouble because he stepped on the rope, so we tied him up to a tree)... he also found some animal bones that he enjoy very much... besides that he was good boy...
today we (lu, ashley, tim, phil, andrew, brooke and i) headed out to the canyon...
we climbed at toomsooba (i learned the correct spelling of that today, i always thought it was team suba)... it was my first time there so i was psyched to get on a bunch of new climbs!
lu and i wanted to do 12 pitches... so we started off with a 5.9 (cake walk) warm up
moved onto a 5.11 (ADR 1) warm up...
then we got to the 12s...
1) courtesy 5.12 - fell at the top
2) toomsooba 5.12 (flash)
3) powder keg 5.12 - tried three times; second time clipped on of the anchors and fell on the move to the jug
4) spell bound 5.12- fell at the crux; amazing rockclimb
5) ADR 5.11 - so pumped; hands were opening on all the jugs
6) double aught 5.12 - amazing as well
lu sent all the ones that i got on, but also got on the beast (5.13) and gave that thing two good efforts, but unfortunately he couldn't pull through without the fall... better luck next time... (but he's done all of them before, so he was mostly training)
ashley was working on her project; powder keg... she gave it a few awesome efforts but the problem was still undefeated...
tim ended up taking a rest day, mostly belaying everyone; thanks tim!
phil warmed up and was really psyched on spell bound; tried it a few times - first burn figuring out the beta, and the next couple of burns trying to get through the crux...
andrew and brooke tried a few different things; toomsooba, powder keg and a 5.10 on the way out...
we all (except lu) have things to come back to... can't wait to get back there!
oreo had a blast as well... he found himself a cave that he got all dirty in (which got him in trouble because he stepped on the rope, so we tied him up to a tree)... he also found some animal bones that he enjoy very much... besides that he was good boy...
Wednesday, May 12, 2010
Tuesday, May 11, 2010
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