More sends for Jimbo!!

V15's for Webb and Woods
posted by dpm on 09/10/2013

At Lincoln Lake, Colorado, Daniel Woods has completed the 2nd ascent of Jimmy Webb's new problem Wheel of Wolvo (V15) and Jimmy has added a harder finish to produce Delirium (V15). The addition of the 10-move V14 intro, leading to a jug rest, seems to have opened up a small world of opportunities for progression. Wheel of Wolvo climbs the V14 to the rest, then finishes out the Overcling Traverse, a V11/12 in its own right. Delirium climbs the initial V14 to the same rest, then finishes out Dismantling the Enemy (V12). Jimmy notes on his 8a scorecard that it's a slightly harder and more direct finish but doesn't change the grade, which makes sense. He also mentions that it's feeling "more and more doable" to finish out We Can Build You, a V14 that starts on the resting hold that marks the end of the initial V14 section of Wheel of Wolvo and Delirium. Confused? To put it simply, a V14 section ends at a good resting hold and there are at least three possible finishes: V11/12 (Wheel of Wolvo), V12 (Delirium), and V14 which has yet to be completed. I'm no mathematician but it seems that if V14 + V12 = V15, then it would be logical to assume that V14 + V14 would equal V16. If that link-up is accomplished, I'm calling it V16. I don't care what Jimmy Webb says. Click the image below to watch some footage of some alpine bouldering around Colorado, including Lincoln Lake. At 9:30, you'll see Jimmy Webb pull onto the start of We Can Build You and if you look closely, you can see the ticked holds of the new V14 entrance beneath his feet.

Gonna have to brag a little... for my boyfriend!

INTERVIEW: JIMMY WEBB SENDS HIS "FIRST TRUE" V15 WITH THE WHEEL OF WOLVO

05-Sep-2013

By

Chris Parker

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Webb just chilling on the send of The Wheel of Wolvo (V15). Photo courtesy of Dave Graham

Southern powerhouse Jimmy Webb has cranked the first ascent of The Wheel of Wolvo (V15) in Mount Evans, Colorado. Webb, who recently moved from his hometown of Chattanooga, Tennessee, to Boulder, Colorado, has wasted little time establishing one of Colorado's hardest testpieces.

"Comparing The Wheel to my other ascents ... I do see it as a step up," Webb recently told Rock and Ice.

The problem sits high at the Lincoln Lake area and, according to Webb, consists of a 10-move V14 into a 15-move V11/12. "A pumpy one for sure and suited my style/height perfectly," commented Webb on his 8a.nu scorecard. 

Webb has been on a tear recently. While visiting Rocklands, South Africa, this summer, Webb managed to flash three V13's. After returning to the U.S., Webb then took the win at the 2013 Psicobloc Masters Series in Park City, Utah.

First try in Rocklands from Jimmy Webb on Vimeo.

Today, Webb has taken the time to give Rock and Ice readers the low down on his new V15 and more.

Q&A:

R&I: How was The Wheel of Wolvo discovered?

Dave Graham technically found the line a few years back, but I think he didn't quite see the possibility and decided to wait and come back to it. This year he went down for a look and put some work into cleaning the line and getting it all set up. I showed up two days later and helped him clean it some more and we started working out all the moves. 

R&I: How long did it take you to send the problem?

I tried The Wheel for three full days, working on it a lot with Daniel Woods and Dave Graham.

R&I: Is The Wheel of Wolvo an endurance problem or is there a definitive crux? 

Well, it's kind of both actually. The first 10 moves are a very powerful yet technical 8B+ (V14). Linking the bottom boulder is definitely the most difficult part of the bloc, but after you complete this you have to put yourself back together and execute the final 15 move 8A/+ (V11/12) endurance section.

R&I: How did the send feel? In the photo it looks as if you're just chilling! 

Haha! Well I was hanging out in the rest that separates the two boulders so yeah, you definitely gotta chill. The send felt hard, man. It's a battle from beginning to end and there are multiple points on the climb that you can fail. The difficulty of lines like this are just being able to clear your thoughts and execute. A lot of times the hardest part of climbing at your limit is allowing your mind to roam free and just let your body do the work. 

R&I: Is this your hardest first ascent? How does The Wheel compare with your other hard ascents?

I think this is definitely my hardest FA, as I believe it to be the first true 8C (V15) that I have ever climbed. Although it's really hard to say if this is the hardest problem, for me, that I have done. Climbing is so strange, so style specific, and so personal that it's really hard to explain that it is, in fact, the hardest thing I have climbed. I honestly have done some 8A+'s (V11's) that are outside my style that felt harder than some 8b+ (V14) that suited me perfectly. Comparing the Wheel to some of my other ascents, however, I do see it as a step up. This problem is really tough and I feel lucky to have been able to to piece it together. 

R&I: Finally, you just moved from the South to Colorado. Why?

Well first of all I'm a southern boy at heart and that will never change. Chattanooga will always be my true home and I'm positive one day we will return. For now my girlfriend Kasia and I were just looking for a change of pace. We wanted to move here so that we could expand our climbing and experience what CO. has to offer. Which really is a TON of climbing. There are so many things to climb here and so many cool people to climb them with. It's a great place for us now and we're stoked for what the future holds.

Munich World Cup

I came about going to this competition by pure convenience

My friend Meagan informed me about it and it made me start to think what if I competed in it?

It would only bring me more experience, and since I had taken a little break from competing I felt more compelled to do it. 

Since I had planned a trip to Poland to visit my grandma around the same time, I thought what the hell, let's get a flight to Munich for the weekend, it's not far (only an hour and half flight) 

So I did, and i'm really happy with my decision! 

It was a great event and I ran into a bunch of people that I have met over the years climbing at different outdoor areas! It's crazy to think how big the world is, but yet the climbing community is so small!

I've complied a small video of myself climbing on all the qualifying boulders.  I feel as if they were all in my reach and there were a few I should of completed.  But that is the competition setting and it makes everything just a little bit harder.  

Munich World Cup from Kasia Pietras on Vimeo.

It was very impressive to watch all the other competitors, male and female, throughout the weekend and try to learn from them.  After this weekend, I have decided that competition climbing comes down more to your mental head game than it does to power.  And I think I was able to overcome that factor at this event.  I was able to treat each boulder as it's own individual problem.  I was able to forget about the previous climbs and calm myself down in the 5 minutes in between each boulder.  I would concentrate on my breathing and my heart rate which helped me overcome the pump and stress of the whole event.  

Even though I think it is more mental than physical does not mean I do not need to get in shape! Haha

There are many things I need to work on to be able and do better in the future! But for now, I'm on vacation.  So i'm going to enjoy Paris and the rest of my stay in Poland.  

When I get back to the states I will have my hands full for a week with setting for The Heist competition with fellow friend, Sydney McNair, and others.  Hopefully we can get more female competitors to make the trip out to Boston and make this thing better than ever! 

Europe, before the World Cup

I have recently moved to Colorado! I still can't believe it!! It took several days to get the place in order but it now feels like home!!

 RMNP 

I've only been in Colorado for two weeks and now I am traveling to Europe for the next three weeks.  My first stop was Warsaw where i'm visiting my grandma.  We have already gone to visit a few places.  

Church in Warsaw

But now i'm in Munich, Germany to compete at the Final World Cup event.  I haven't competed in a competition over 9 months.  This will be very exciting but i'm also very nervous! I haven't competed in a World Cup event in many years, so in a way i do not have any expectations because i don't know what to expect.  I just need to keep a good attitude and it will be a great event! Can't wait to compete!! Wish me luck!!

Boarding my flight to Munich! 

Been busy...

I have been very busy these last few months... 

Jimmy and I celebrated our five year anniversary on May 1st. I have had an amazing time with him and I can't wait for our ten year anniversary! I feel that we compliment each other well and have  taught each other many important things!

 

In may I drove out to Richmond, va to help set and forerun for dominion river rocks. It was one of the best competition experiences that I have had in a long time. I was able to hang out with all my friends but also climb all the boulders without the stress. Don't get me wrong there was still some stress because we had to make sure everything was going to work out as planned and with the rain interfering with the event a little we almost were not able to show case all the boulders but luckily there was a break in the weather and all the competitors were able to experience all the rounds and boulders we had set up for them.

 

Following this event I drove to Fayetteville, NC to participate in a route setting clinic. This was for the level 1 certification and I was really happy to complete it. The best part was that I had to set some routes which I had never set before. It was a great experience and I can't wait to do the level 2 clinic. 

I came back home for a short while because I had plans to take the climbing team to the Red mid June. I was really excited about this trip because the team hasn't gone in two years and we had a couple new members. Overall it was a great trip and all the team members we able to accomplish amazing things. I'm proud to have coached these kids. 

When we got back from the red it was time to get ready to fly out to South Africa and go climbing in the Rocklands! But before we left, we decided to reset the whole gym and have a summer competition! It was awesome with a great turn out! 

Here's a link to my post on the five ten website about the trip to the Rocklands! 

http://fiveten.com/community/blog-detail/14199-rocklands-bouldering-trip-kasia-pietras

All in all it was amazing and I can't wait to get back!!

When we got back from South Africa jimmy flew to salt lake for the trade show where he did amazing at the deep water soloing competition. I stayed home and took care of some minor things because jimmy and I decided to move to Boulder, CO. I had a lock in for the climbing team to wish them farewell but not to worry I will be seeing them in Hueco this winter!!  Everything happened so fast and before I knew it we are at a going away party hosted by the climbing gym. Thanks to everyone that was there, it meant a lot to me! 

And here we are now driving out to Colorado in a Penske truck. It all feels so surreal!! Can't believe it's actually happening. These past two weeks went by so fast that I'm still catching up. 

Recent events

My friend Meagan Martin came to visit me from Orlando. She was super psyched to climb outside since she doesn't have access to real rock in Florida.

It was great to have a girl visit and being close friend made her stay even better!

We went to all the classic areas as well as some others... Here is our tick list for the areas!

Little Rock City

Instinct Sit - Meagan

Cleo and Cindy Trav - Meagan

Instinct - Meagan

Castaway - Meagan

Dayton Pocket

Hippy Culture - Meagan and I

Sand blaster - me

Honey comb - Meagan

Rocktown

Orb direct - me

Tractor trailer - me

Vagina - Meagan

Chattanooga

Paul Bunyan trav - Meagan

Nine lives - Meagan

After she left there were a few good climbing days on which I went back and did...

- Paul Bunyan Trav

- Hand on the Axe Stand

- Tennessee Thong

- Anearden low

Besides climbing we did a bunch of other things...

 Chocolate Strawberry Cake

Did I mention it snowed?

Chocolate Croissants

Meagan on Nine Lives

 Pretzels

 Eclairs for the Super Bowl Party!

 Oreo all dressed up

Our piercings...

I'm not trying to spread a rumor, but I overheard that Meagan might be moving to Chattanooga sometime later on this year...

Can't wait!

In the mean time hopefully this video keeps you guys psyched and anticipating what is to come...

Meagan in Chatty from Kasia Pietras on Vimeo.

Boston Trip - Dark Horse

I spent some time in Boston over my winter break.
It was a great time! I was able to climb outside at three new areas.
I was only sent on thing, but was able to witness jimmy flash a v13, v12 and a v11!!
It was super inspiring!
Here's a video of our trip!

A Northeastern Experience from Jimmy Webb on Vimeo.

We were in Boston for the Dark horse comp!
It went well... Jimmy ended up in 1st and I got 3rd!
Here's a small video of the comp...
Dark Horse 2013 Series 4 Round 3 Highlights from Louder Than Eleven on Vimeo.
We traveled back to Boston in January to compete at the last Dark Horse Event...
This time around it didn't go as well... I got a food bug during lunch before finals and just didn't feel like myself...
Here's a video of that event...
Dark Horse 2013 Series 4 Championship Highlights from Louder Than Eleven on Vimeo.
I'm back in chatty now, waiting for my friend Meagan to come visit me... Still going to school but graduating this may! Besides that everything is the same!